By Budd Stanley

Who could forget the classic opening to The Italian Job? No, not Marky Mark walking through a Venetian piazza. The one from 1969 starring Michael Cain that opened with  Rossano Brazzi carving his way up an Italian Alp in a classic Lamborghini Miura to the musical mixture of a Lamborghini V-12 and the song “On days like these” performed by Matt Monro. Well, that special bit of road that Brazzi was enjoying until his untimely run-in with an ill placed bulldozer, was the Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass. After my adventures on the Col de Turini (see story), I travelled north to experience the Grand-Saint-Bernard (lets call it the GSB) and ironically hit Turino at the hight of rush hour. Like Minis full of gold loot, I too struggled to get my Z4 through the endless maze of traffic filled streets, for on the other side of the city lay the alps and the town of Aosta which leads to the hidden jewel.

Linking Aosta, Italy, to Martigny, Switzerland, the pass is a much more interesting alternative to the toll tunnel that goes through the mountain. Experience has taught me when new roads are built under old ones, it’s a good sign that traffic will be light on the long road, and this was the case when I made the climb into the alpine border lands that mark the Swiss-Italian territories. Taken mid-evening on a weekday, I nearly had the entire pass all to myself, even the motorbikes and cyclists were few and far between, a trait the GSB is known for.

The route starts in the mountain valley leading north from Aosta, Italy, and begins as a winding country two-lane road. At the base of the Valais Alps, the road narrows to a single lane through a heavy wood, with rock barriers, so careful anticipation of oncoming is required. However, it all got interesting once I punched through the tree line and out into the alpine, a spectacular manmade line that traverses the side of the mountain four times before loping over the rocky crest. The expanse of the valley heeds a great view of any impeding traffic, while the narrow winding lane is littered with only a few sharp hairpins to give the driver an abundance of challenges.

Over the first crest, and I was greeted with a feast of meandering corners slowly making their way up to the famous tunnel of death just below the first peak. It is in this magnificent bowl that all the filming took place for the original Italian Job. No wonder, as this road is by far the most beautiful I’ve ever seen in terms of cosmetics, the route is a constant joyful challenge and the landscape is breathtaking. As I carved my way through the natural obstructions, I couldn’t help but whistle the iconic song to myself, with a disappointed look coming from my girlfriend from across the cabin. Yeah, it’s a cheese ball song, but at this particular moment in time, and in this particular place, no other song seemed worthy.

I have to hand it to the Italians, the condition of the road was immaculate. It looked as though it just had a complete makeover prior to my arrival. The tarmac had that fresh black color with bright white lines, and the entire route up to the peak had clean, stained-timber Armco barriers that would act more for decoration than as a savior if anyone were to leave the road. Rightly so, several pullouts have been created for drivers to take a break from sweaty palm driving, and to enjoy the rocky outcroppings, alpine meadows and brooks that make this place just that much more special. At the peak lies a mountain top lake, still half covered in ice, as well as the usual touristy kiosks, hotels and restaurants.The peak of this Alp represents the Swiss-Italian boarder, manned by two uniformed agents and a sharp looking Land Rover Defender. With a nod, I was waved through and began the decent down the Swiss side of the pass.

The Swiss side is a stark contrast to that of the Italian, as the road was very narrow and bumpy. Nerves are tested with much larger drop offs and nothing more than a few stones planted on the side of the road to keep you alive – maybe.

Arriving in Martingy, Switzerland, the end point of the pass, I had time to reflect on this beautiful stretch of road. While it may not have been the greatest driving road in the series, it still made for a truly special driving experience. Breath taking views, great road construction, history, and a great mix of aggressive and challenging driving conditions all make the GSB is a must if you find yourself in northwestern Italy, or southwestern Switzerland.

Total Distance: 74.8 km
Altitude: 2,469 m

Best time to go: Pass is only open between June and September.

Places To Stop: Pullout just over the tunnel entrance for spectacular views (27 km), Swiss Border, kiosks and Inns at the top of the Col (33 km), Pullout near tunnel ventilation shaft with a history lesson of Napoleon’s expedition and great views (36 km).

Starting Point: Coordinates 45°44′28″N – 7°18′51″E. Beginning in Aosta, Italy, take the E27/SS27 (Ave Grand-Saint-Bernard) north into the Alps. At 19 km, leave the tunnel route and follow SS27 over the pass. At 33 km is the summit as well as the Swiss border, the route then tracks down the Swiss side joining back up with the new route  and continues on to Martigny, Switzerland.

Finishing Point: Coordinates 46°5′16″N – 7°3′19″E, Martigny, Switzerland.

Road Type: Smooth flowing two lane alpine road on Italian side that turns into a rough and narrow lane that slows due to terrain.

Warnings: Due to altitude and snowfall the pass is only open during summer months. The Swiss side of the pass has large drops with only the occasional stone to prevent long drops off the road.

There is good news, however. Two new events in B.C. are happening this fall, and both should be of interest to classic car enthusiasts. September 18th is the Rally du Chilliwack, and October 1st-3rd brings the Jellybean Autocrafter’s Fall Colors Tour. If you were waiting to hear about the Fall Freeze, you should definitely consider either of these two events! We’re really excited to see more events starting up that are designed for drivers. Additional chances to get out and use our classics can only be a good thing

Despite the surgery speed-bump, we won’t be resting here at the Classic Car Adventures’ office. Dave’s not allowed to wrench on his Volkswagen during the recovery, but he’s been given full clearance for planning the Spring Thaw. 2010 was a great year, but with six months recovery we’re pretty sure 2011 is going to be even better!

If you’re anything like us, you’ve got a stack of magazines sitting on the shelf awaiting recycling or re-reading. Here at the Classic Car Adventure’s offices, we think it time to give those Automotive magazines new life, and meet other car enthusiasts in the process! Surely other enthusiasts have magazines we wish we had bought, and ours have more reading life left in them. So we thought, “why don’t we try and get our Classic Car friends together and have a magazine swap?!” If you’ve been to any of our events before, you know we think classic cars are best enjoyed while moving…so of course we’ll be hosting a drive as well!

Similar to our Thanksgiving Run, our new “Rag Run” is a free-to-enter event with a short (approximately 45min-1hr) drive along some fantastic twisty roads. While there is no entry fee, we are asking each car to bring at least one-non perishable food item for the Food Bank. We definitely hope you’ll want to be involved in our magazine swap, to do so you simply need to bring three classic car magazines that you wish to swap out for three new (to you) ones. We’re not worried about whether the magazine you bring is one-marque specific, multi-branded, a particular style or even what year the magazine is from. If it’s got reading life left in it, it’s perfect!

Our drive through the valley will have simple to follow directions, in the typical Classic Car Adventures style. We’re heading out onto twisty roads which will take you back to those years before 6-lane highways from point A to point B. We’ve always felt the fun is in getting there, even if we’re doing a loop back to lunch! Speaking of Lunch, the Mission Springs Brewery has brought back their Sunday brunch due to popular demand…and we plan to try as much of the menu as possible! If you haven’t yet been to the Mission Springs Restaurant, you’re in for a treat. Whether it’s the antique gas pumps, the ’46 pickup hanging from the ceiling, or the spark plugs built into your table…there is something to interest every car nut.

When: Sunday June 13th, 2010. Driver’s meeting at 10:00am, Lunch (optional) following our drive.
Where: Meeting at the Mission Springs Restaurant parking lot. 7160 Oliver Street, at Lougheed Highway, Mission BC
What to Bring: At least one non-perishable food item for the food bank. Three classic-car related magazines (of any type).

This event is open to any make, and any model. While our events are certainly geared towards cars made in 1979 and earlier, the most important part is that you’re a classic car enthusiast!

I had the unique opportunity to grow up in both the pre-internet days, and the post-internet boom. To folks just a few years older than me, I’m one of those “internet kids” who have always been attached to a computer. But, I’m old enough to appreciate the days when one had to use magazines, the yellow pages and a physical store to go about finding car parts. My younger days were spent reading Dad’s HotVW magazines, planning out the parts I would one day buy for as-yet-unpurchased vee-dub.

Fast-forward about 20 years, and I finally got around to buying a Beetle of my own. As is tradition in my family, I low-balled on a bit of a fixer-upper and soon had it sitting in my driveway. Before purchasing the bug, I had spent a couple of months catching up with some magazines, as well as the now-common practice of surfing the internet forums. When it came to actually buying parts for my car, however, I was fully immersed in the whiz-kid world of internet shopping.

It’s difficult to deny the convenience of shopping online. Catalogs expand and unfold with simply a click of a mouse. Should a description be missing, the manufacturer’s website is right at your fingertips. Still unsure about a particular part? A simple search on an enthusiast forum is likely to tell you everything you need to know. For most dealers you’ll even be told before you order whether the part is in-stock or backordered. I live in a fairly small town, and the closest air-cooled parts specialist is a two-hour drive away.  Can you imagine driving two-hours these days to find out a part wasn’t available or sold before you arrived?

It was at least a year that I was singing the praises of easy internet shopping. I could plan jobs ahead of time, order the parts, and know they’d arrive on Friday for weekend wrenching. I was confident I was getting great pricing deals, and always got exactly what I ordered. The problem with getting exactly what you ordered is perhaps we aren’t actually the best judge of which product we need. I over-spent on expensive items where the cheaper option would have been more then adequate. Vice versa, I broke or wore out cheaper options when I needed the better quality option. Have you ever tried to return an item to an online retailer? It’s not always so easy.

About the time that I was starting to see cracks in the internet masterpiece, I met some gents on the Spring Thaw Adventure. They happened to own the local Vancouver VW specialty parts store, and by the third day we were discussing why I purchased online versus locally. In the end, the best reason I could give them was that purchasing from their store vs. online would mean I’d have to pay for shipping. My online retailer offered free shipping for most of my orders. “We can work that out,” Art suggested “don’t worry about the shipping.” With that, I began to order from their shop.

We’ve all heard stories about how things were “better in the old days”. Well I must admit, my experience with buying parts over the past year has me longing for the ‘old days’ where we used to have to get to know the retailers we worked with.

Art, and his brother Rob, have taken the time to get to know me and my project. When I call with a list of things I need, they’ll often have a suggestion on a particular brand and explain why it suits my project and budget. When it came to shipping a heavy rear-disc conversion kit, Rob simply decided it would be worth taking a Sunday cruise with the family and brought it right to my door. Returns on bits I ordered and didn’t need have been seamless, and at one point they even offered to take a return on some cylinder heads I didn’t even buy from them!

I’m not suggesting every retail shop experience is going to turn out as well as mine has. But when it comes to classic cars, I think you’ll find that getting to know the owner and counterperson at a specialist benefits your projects in more ways than one. I only see Art and Rob at the annual car show and a couple of club events during the year, but our mutual interest in similar classics, combined with a mutual effort to get to know each other has resulted in a great friendship. There’s no reason you can’t develop an equally great relationship with your parts specialist just by simply taking an interest in their projects, and their business. Try doing that with a webpage!

Imagine if you will, the chance to drive the Col de Turini. An exciting, once in a lifetime chance yes, but what if you were given a high-powered sports car, and you had the Col all to yourself, free to take rage on the most famous and historical of all World Rally Championship stages? Well, I just happened to be in the region and I thought it would be a shame to come all this way and not tackle the great Col de Turini. The Col is the staple, and often deciding, stage in the Monte Carlo rally.

All the great names in rallying have attacked this particularly sacred strip of tarmac. Paddy Hopkirk, Rauno Aaltonen, Sandro Munari, Timo Makinen, Marku Allen, Ari Vatenen, Tommi Makinen, Colin McRae, and Seb Loeb have all taken stage wins here to win the Monte. It is a stage that separates the men from the boys with several deadly characteristics. With an altitude change of 1200 meters, drivers are usually sent out on slicks with only a few studs punched in around the outside of the tire. That’s because the road at the bottom of the mountain is usually free of ice or snow. However once drivers start to reach the top of the Col, a fresh dusting of the slick stuff is most likely waiting for them. Changing surface conditions is then matched to the roads topographical limitations, as it’s literally carved into a rock face. Sounds like fun, so off I went to experience the Col for myself.

With a new 2009 BMW Z4 sDrive35i turbo as my weapon, I made my way up the D2565 (a particularly spectacular bit of road in itself) leading to the town of La Bollène-Vésubie, and the beginning of the Col. Much like the Eiffel region that is home to the Nurburgring, there is a aura of speed and motorsport excellence in the region. Here, drivers begin to push vehicles limits and put more emphases on the perfect cornering line. Seeing a mid 80’s Fiat Panda cutting a blind corner with the rear tire lifted into the air like an angry terrier becomes a regular sight. The D2565 is a great road, but as soon as you turn off onto the D70, the fact you are on the legendary stage is clear.

The tight and narrow road is absolutely riddled with corners. Rising out of La Bollène-Vésubie and up the rocky cliff gorge, the road is little more than a one lane ledge with a sheer rock wall on the left side, and a bottomless drop off the right side as it charges steep into the mountain. It wasn’t long until I hit the first hairpin complex, a stack of switchbacks that climb the rocky cliff like a ladder, so popular with the camera helicopters. On I drove, with no traffic in sight, rubber scars littering the road surface where S2000 cars have left their braking too late, or spun their wheels leaving the hairpins. The endless onslaught of corners continued on into the beautiful Turini forest that covers the higher altitudes.

Finally I had arrived at the top of the Col, a legendary piece of real estate where 35,000 mad and drunken French and Italian fans pummel each other with snowballs and roman candles in anticipation for their competing countrymen to rocket over the Col in a fit of snow spraying glory. There are three Inns here on the Col and the Restaurant des Trois Vallèes, is a particularly good place to grab a bite to eat and a drink, while being surrounded by rally memorabilia.

After some sentimental time on the Col, it was time to head down the D2566 towards Sospel, France. This is where things got interesting. Pulling off the Col and diving down into the forest of the south side, I noticed a sign at the side of the road with the words, “Route Barrière.“ Obviously the road was under construction, but I wasn’t going to let a little sign stop me from exploring this historic route. So on I went.

With the BMW Z4’s turbo now glowing, and the road indeed blocked, I hustled my way back up the stage, the sweet sound of the straight six echoing off both the rock wall and the cliff face on the opposite side of the gorge. Up through the hairpin complex and on to Moulinet. Turn around, and do it all again down hill, the back end of the Z4 breaking loose under the force of braking required to get the car through the tight corners. The rock walls only inches away reflected the light emitted from glowing brake discs. By the time I made it back to the bottom, the brake pedal was almost non-responsive. The concentration and skill needed to navigate a car through this lethal bit of road gave me a new respect for the men who attack this stage in absolute anger. It really does take an exceptional person to not only conquer this road, but to do it in icy conditions on slick tires. This is why Col de Turini is the greatest stage in the WRC.

Lap after lap, I had lost track of time. I cruised back into Moulinet, hoping to find some sort of accommodation, and found the entire town partying in the town square, all 250 souls. Making my way into the square to practice my grade nine level French, I couldn’t even get out a word before I had a glass of champagne and a pastry in my hand. With alcohol in my system and the nature of the road, I would be staying there for the night, whether in the car or a hotel. After asking if there was a hotel open in town, the locals told me not to worry, and my glass was refilled and a fresh pastry supplied. I was given a fully equipped apartment in town by one of the locals and was asked to rejoin for the celebration back in the square. That night I filled myself with champagne and pastries, talked of stories about the rally, and leaped over the massive bonfire burning in the square, as is tradition, making for a truly surreal experience.

The next day I was up a little later than I hoped, for obvious reasons. I walked down to the café for a much-needed espresso, and a chat with the locals I had come to know the night before. And with that it was back into the Z4, and back up the Col, headed to the next great Alp pass on my schedule. But nothing can compare to the experience I received on the Col, a once in a lifetime event.

About The Route:
Places To Stop: The village of Moulinet; famous Inns at the top of the Col; West side hairpin complex; and south side hairpin complex. Total Distance: 22.68 km (stage)
Altitude: 1,607 m
Starting Point: Coordinates 43°98′99″N – 7°32′14″E. We began in the town of La Bollène-Vésubie. Following the D70 east we wound our way to the Col, Following the traditional route south along the D2566 to the stage finish in Sospel, via the village of Moulinet.
Finishing Point: Coordinates 43°52′41″N – 7°26′57″E
Road Type: Hairpin riddled, narrow tarmac rally stage
Warnings: This road requires the absolute in concentration, nearly all corners are blind and everyone is out to best their time. Reflexes must be top level to keep the shiny side up. Serious drop-offs if the stone barriers don’t do their job.